Suturing & Staple Pad Task Trainer Instructions

Find a small to medium-sized container with a flat bottom, or a flat surface such as a counter or table and use clay to create a barrier/fence using clay that will become the suture pad area.

Line your flat surface with wax paper. Examples of a suitable flat surface would be a kitchen counter, stainless steel surface, etc. Alternatively, use a large flat-bottomed container as your work surface with wax paper (e.g. cookie sheet).

TIP: The Smooth Cast™ creates heat, so ensuring wax paper with a sturdy surface will potential minimize any damage to your work surface.

TIP: We suggest a container at least 4” x 6” inches. An 8” x 8” casserole pan makes a nice size.

Trace the container on a piece of power-mesh or a thin cotton t-shirt type fabric with a pencil, chalk, or marker. Cut it out, and save for later.

Add a thin layer of clay to the surface where the silicone will be poured. This allows you to add texture to the clay to simulate skin.

TIPS :

• Place a piece of wax paper slightly smaller than the bottom of your container inside first to make it easier to get the clay out at the end

• Roll out a thin piece of clay slightly larger than the bottom of your container. If available, a rolling pin works well, but Dragon Skin™ bottles (closed securely) will work.

• Place gauze or a facecloth on the clay and roll it to transfer the texture to the clay. Transfer the clay into the container. Press the clay into place using the gauze or cloth.

Determine how much silicone you need to prepare for the surface layer of the skin. Aim for 1/16” thickness.

TIP: 16 ml of silicone (8 ml each of parts A and B) will make 1in³ volume (16mL/in³).

E.g., To make a 1/8” thick layer of silicone in a 8x8” mould, you will require 64mL of silicone (32ml each of parts A and B).

0.0625" (1/16") x 8” x 8” = 4in³.

4in³ x 16mL/in³ = 32 mL

Note: the numbers in this calculation are only relevant for this layer, note the thickness of each layer to perform relevant calculations.

Step 5A : Open and stir Dragon Skin™ Part A. With a different stirring tool, do the same for Part B.

Step 5B : Using a disposable measuring cup (e.g. graduated measuring cups), measure Dragon Skin™ Part B into a disposable cup large enough to hold the final amount.

Step 5C : Add flesh tone pigment(s) to Part B using a disposable toothpick or stir stick, and stir vigorously for 15 seconds/until completely combined without streaks. TIP: A little goes a long way. Start with a small amount of pigment; if you need more, add it, and stir again before adding Part A.

Step 5D : Add Part A to Part B and mix vigorously for 15 seconds / until completely combined without streaks.

IMPORTANT : Now that A & B are combined, you must pour it within 12 minutes, or it will begin to set.

5C:

5D:

Pour the prepared silicone with the flesh tone pigment of your choice into the mould, on top of the clay (if using). Use your stirring tool (e.g. tongue depressor) to scrape down the sides of the cup.

Wait 40 mins for this layer to cure.

Step 7A: Place the piece of fabric you traced earlier and cover the whole surface of the cured silicone.

Purpose: The power mesh/fabric allows for the suture or staple to ‘bite’ on to, preventing the sutures from tearing out or through the silicone.

Step 7B: Prepare another batch of silicone just as in Step 5 except use yellow pigmentation to mimic adipose tissue. Aim for ¼” thickness. You will need more silicone for this layer compared to the surface layer.

Step 7C: Starting in the center of the fabric and container, gently pour it over the silicone and fabric. Use a toothpick, stir stick or something similar to move the fabric if it shifts while pouring.

Wait 40 mins for this layer to cure.

7C

Prepare another batch of silicone just as in Steps 5 and 7 except use red/blood pigmentation to mimic muscle tissue. Aim for ¼” thickness, just like the adipose layer.

Wait 40 mins for this layer to cure.

Once all layers of silicone are cured, take the task trainer out of its container or mould.

If you used clay, gently separate it from the mould.

If desired, rough or uneven edges of the trainer can be cut smooth with a sharp straight-edge knife, scalpel, or scissors to give the trainer a finished look.